Observations of surface-gravity-wave scattering and dissipation by an isolated shoal related to a cuspate foreland

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dc.citation.journalTitleContinental Shelf Research
dc.contributor.authorPaniagua-Arroyave J.F.spa
dc.contributor.authorAdams P.N.spa
dc.contributor.authorParra S.M.spa
dc.contributor.authorValle-Levinson A.spa
dc.contributor.departmentUniversidad EAFIT. Departamento de Geologíaspa
dc.contributor.researchgroupCiencias del Marspa
dc.date.accessioned2021-03-23T20:21:15Z
dc.date.available2021-03-23T20:21:15Z
dc.date.issued2019-01-01
dc.description.abstractInner-shelf and shoreline morphology exert control on the variability of gravity waves. Although gravity waves can influence nearshore morphodynamics, their behavior is not well understood at inner-shelves close to cuspate forelands with complex bathymetry. In order to study the effects of cape shoals on gravity wave variability, water level and velocity data were collected during Fall 2013, Spring 2014, and Fall 2014 within the swales on either side of Shoal E, near Cape Canaveral, Florida. Short wave energy fluxes (periods from 3 to 20 s, or frequencies from 50 to ~300 mHz) were calculated from time series of spectral densities, whereas cross-shoal infragravity energy fluxes (periods from 20 to 500 s, or frequencies from 2 to 50 mHz) were calculated from cross-spectra of pressure and cross-shoal velocities. Ratios of short-gravity-wave energy fluxes between inner and outer swales of Shoal E ranged from 0.5 to 3. Values < 1 were typically associated to large (wave heights > 1 m) and short waves (periods < 5 s) likely related to dissipation. Ratios > 1 were exhibited by large and long (periods > 10 s) waves because of refraction. Values close to 1 were related to small waves regardless of the wavelength. In addition, infragravity reflection coefficients were quantified as the ratio of seaward to landward infragravity energy fluxes. Reflection coefficients and spatial variations in infragravity fluxes indicate that instruments were located in the shoaling zone during Fall 2013 and Fall 2014. Infragravity energy flux differences between inner and outer swales further suggest Shoal E may have acted as a source of infragravity energy. Differences in reflection between swales on either side of Shoal E could be attributed to asymmetric short-wave shoaling and breaking, partial infragravity reflection, and infragravity energy trapping near the shoal. However, instrument configuration did not allow for along-shoal calculations, which hindered resolution of edge waves that might develop over the shoal. Our results provide evidence, albeit incomplete, of surface-gravity-wave energy scattering and dissipation over cape-related shoals. Such wave transformations, including infragravity energy forcing, may provide a positive feedback for the long-term stability of cuspate forelands by preventing the full complement of deep water wave energy from reaching the shoreline. © 2018 Elsevier Ltdeng
dc.identifierhttps://eafit.fundanetsuite.com/Publicaciones/ProdCientif/PublicacionFrw.aspx?id=8519
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.csr.2018.12.004
dc.identifier.issn02784343
dc.identifier.issn18736955
dc.identifier.otherWOS;000457662100004
dc.identifier.otherSCOPUS;2-s2.0-85058961390
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10784/26933
dc.language.isoengeng
dc.publisherPERGAMON-ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD
dc.relation.urihttps://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-85058961390&doi=10.1016%2fj.csr.2018.12.004&partnerID=40&md5=b95cc7756ce86e57191492512c8ded97
dc.rightshttps://v2.sherpa.ac.uk/id/publication/issn/0278-4343
dc.sourceContinental Shelf Research
dc.subject.keywordAcoustic Doppler Current Profilereng
dc.subject.keyworddeep watereng
dc.subject.keywordenergy dissipationeng
dc.subject.keywordgravity waveeng
dc.subject.keywordshoaling waveeng
dc.subject.keywordshorelineeng
dc.subject.keywordvelocity structureeng
dc.subject.keywordwave energyeng
dc.subject.keywordwave reflectioneng
dc.subject.keywordwave scatteringeng
dc.subject.keywordCape Canaveraleng
dc.subject.keywordFlorida [United States]eng
dc.subject.keywordUnited Stateseng
dc.titleObservations of surface-gravity-wave scattering and dissipation by an isolated shoal related to a cuspate forelandeng
dc.typeinfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleeng
dc.typearticleeng
dc.typeinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioneng
dc.typepublishedVersioneng
dc.type.localArtículospa

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